Red Art- 50
Fire Clay- 15
Gold Art- 20
Talc- 10
Silica- 5
100

1/4 cup Barium Carbonate to prevent scumming

Grog to taste- 7%- 18% a variety of mesh sizes works best for particle packing. (depending on how large, thick and strong your work needs to be)

KARI’S BEST

Frit P-626- 25
Frit 3124- 15
Gerstley Borate- 15
Spodumene- 18
Wollastonite- 7
EPK- 20
_________________________

100

Dry Mix In….
Veegum T 1.6
CMC gum 0.6

Emerald Green
Copper Carb 6%

Blue
Cobalt Carb 1.5%
Copper Carb 2%

Maroon
Manganese dioxide 7%
Copper Carb 0.5%

Soft Lime Green
Chrome Oxide 0.125%
Vanadium Yellow 6440 0.5%

Chartreuse
Chrome Oxide 0.125%
Vanadium Yellow #6440 5%

Celadon
Copper Carb 0.3%

This glaze is not meant to be a liner glaze.

Red's Red Casting Slip

50# fits in a 7 gallon bucket

Red art - 30 pounds
OM4 ball clay - 15 pounds
Talc – 2.5 pounds
Silica – 2.5 pounds
Barium carbonate – 68 g
Soda ash – 22 g
Distilled water – 2 gallons + 10.5 cups
Darvan 811 - 90 g

Pre-mix soda ash in 2 cups hot water

Add 3.5 quarts water (to get to 2 gallons total)

Add barium carbonate

Add Red Art and Ball Clay then Talc and Silica, adding Darvan and water as needed

NOTE: Water should be 36% to 40% of dry materials by weight. This recipe has 44%. 2.66 gallons x 8.33#= 22# (for 50# of dry materials)

Special Thanks to Pete Pinnell and Meredith Brickell

BASIC RECIPE
by weight
2 parts distilled water
1 part clay

Let clay slake down into distilled water

Mix well, 5-10 minutes

Add sodium silicate

1/2 of 1% (0.5%) of dry weight of clay

(the amount of deflocculant may vary depending on the clay)

Mix well again

Set bucket off floor about 6 inches or so
let sit undisturbed, covered for 8 hours
(the amount of settling time may vary depending on the clay)

Decant Sig-siphon off the center layer into a clean bucket

Here are the recipes that I use.
These amounts mix up well in a 5-gallon bucket:

OM4 BASE

20 # distilled water (2.39 gallons)
10 # ball clay
22.7 grams sodium silicate
yields approx 2 gallons of terra sigillata

RED ART BASE

20 # distilled water (2.39 gallons)
10 # Red Art
22.7 grams sodium silicate

settle for 6 hours

Helpful Information:
1 gallon of water = 8.34lbs)
“A pints a pound the world around”,
2 c= 1 pint

NOTES:

Distilled Water

Water varies from region to region and can also vary greatly at different times of the year. Using distilled water guarantees that you can consistently duplicate your sig no matter your location or season.

Hard Water (elevated calcium and magnesium): flocculates, inhibits settling, often well water.

Soft Water (elevated sodium and potassium): defloculates, aids in settling, often city water.

Settling Times

When using Redart clay, the heavier sediments will form a distinct layer with a fairly hard surface, and it will be obvious where to stop siphoning.

With most Ball Clays, the particle size is so consistent that you wont sense a heavier layer of sediment. In this case use ⅔ of the sig and discard the rest.

Specific Gravity

Checking your specific gravity is a dependable way to measure the consistency of your sig. This measurement can tell you how much clay is in the sig relative to the water. The basic idea is that the higher the measurement, the thicker the application, and the lower the measurement, the thinner the application. This analysis is not required when making sig but I find that it greatly limits application problems.

Too thin (below 1.1)-

Application will appear washy.

Solution: You can leave the lid off the bucket for a while and check again in a few days, or remix it and let it settle for less time.

Too thick (above 1.2)-

Sig can crack off pots in either the green, bisque or glaze state.

Solution: Add a bit of water, or remix it and let it settle for more time.

A good specific gravity for sig is between 1.14 - 1.17

NOTES ON ADDING COLORANTS/OPACIFIERS :

I encourage people to work intuitively when testing sig colors. It is more like working in a kitchen than in a glaze lab. Add a little of this, try a little of that... then TEST. Make sure to write everything down!

Some titanium dioxide in the mix can help give the sig substance. It can prevent it from being too wash (when applied),, translucent or disappearing beneath glazes.

That being said...

the more Titanium a sig has the more yellow it will be

lithium glazes will attack the sig no matter how much titanium is in the mix..

In general, 3 tablespoons of mason stain per 1 cup of terra sigillata base will give you a bold, saturated color. However, each stain/ colorant will saturate the base at different levels. Always test first.

More color options- I love using Amaco underglaze as a colorant in my sig! I measure underglaze and base volumetrically and keep track of the results in my glaze notebook. The gums from the underglaze and the clay from the sig combine to make a deluxe, consistency.

Color Tints- I often make tints of my saturated colors by making additions of white base volumetrically. I carefully measure and record the parts and keep track of them in my glaze notebook so they can be easily reproduced.

Listed below are colors that I currently use.

All are based on 1 cup of terra sigillata base plus the listed colorants in teaspoons or tablespoon increments.

t = teaspoon

tbl = tablespoon

OM4 Base Recipes

*Soft White- 2.5 t. Zircopax, .5 t Titanium Diox.

*Antique White- 3t Titanium Diox.

*Toothpaste White- 3t Zircopax

*Orange- 3 tbl mason stain #6027 (Tangerine)

*Light Blue- 3 tbl mason stain #6376 (Robins Egg Blue)

*Yellow- 3 tbl #6450 (Praseodymium)

*Red- 1part Amaco bright red underglaze (v-387): 3 parts OM-4 base

White OM-4 Base

*Grey- - 1t #6503, ½ t Titanium Diox.

*Soft Red- 2.5t #6026, ½ t Titanium Diox.

*Soft Orange- 2.5t #6027, ½ t Titanium Diox.

*Peach- 1 t #6129

Red Art Base Recipes:

* Black- 1 tbl #6600

*Iron Red- 3t Red Iron Oxide

*Iron Purple- 3t Crocus Martis

*Brownish Red- 2 t umber

*Pinky Orange- 1/2 OM4 base white : 1/2 Red Art

*Mustard- 1/2 OM4 + 1/2 Red Art + 1 t titanium dioxide

Enjoy friends.

XO